Driving along Finland’s sinuous dirt roads, all the people we meet are very welcoming and many have heard of Paris-North Cape.

Our hosts for the evening are Arne and Kirsti, a retired couple who have been part of the Rally since its first edition, in 1988. They mow their field, set up “Nordkapp Rallye” signs to show us where to pitch our tents, open a little shop where their children sell craft objects, and offer us homemade cakes. They don’t speak French or English, but we understand their smiles…