We set off along Finland’s minor roads for a transit stage that will take us to the southwest coast and the country’s old capital at Turku. The area is, in fact, a huge archipelago consisting of thousands of islands, some of them minuscule, scattered over dozens of kilometres.

Despite being difficult to get to, many of these islands are still inhabited. We leave our cars on the coast and board the tiny ferry for the three-hour crossing to one of the remotest islands. Gathered round the campfire that evening, we again feel like we are bivouacking at the end of the world, on a dot of land in the middle of nowhere.